THOMAS EVANS, SARAH TRUEBE SAR3
HTTP://SARRR.WEEBLY.COM/
A Review of Webbing Anchor Research THOMAS EVANS, SARAH TRUEBE SAR - - PowerPoint PPT Presentation
A Review of Webbing Anchor Research THOMAS EVANS, SARAH TRUEBE SAR 3 HTTP://SARRR.WEEBLY.COM/ Need 5 year research program Learned a lot Other available research Are our results consistent with theirs? Need a meta analysis
THOMAS EVANS, SARAH TRUEBE SAR3
HTTP://SARRR.WEEBLY.COM/
○ Learned a lot
○ Are our results consistent with theirs?
○ Compare all research ○ Determine consistency ○ Bigger picture?
○ Found papers on webbing anchors ○ Read them ○ Synthesized data ○ Drew bigger conclusions
○ Data published in the paper
○ Based on a literature review of testing data ○ Does not include multipoint anchors
Not included here Included here
Three Pull Two Webbing Anchors, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium, Fort Collins, Colorado, November 3-6, 2011
Interface Failure and Failure Modes, International Technical Rescue Symposium, Seattle, Washington, November 1-3, 2012
International Technical Rescue Symposium, Albuquerque, New Mexico, November 7-10, 2013
Symposium, Portland, Oregon, November 5-8, 2015
Technical Rescue Symposium, Golden Colorado, November 2-4, 2007
Symposium, Tucson, Arizona, October 20-22, 2000
Technical Rescue Symposium, Denver, Colorado, November 6-9, 2014
//user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/pull_tests_11_98.html
Rescue Symposium, Albuquerque, New Mexico, November 7-10, 2013
○ A table that lists each study
○ A synopsis table
○ A list of my conclusions
Anchor Type Average Strength (kN) Standard Deviation (kN) Maximum Strength (kN) Minimum Strength (kN) Webbing Loop 21.1 3.3 25.0 16.2 Webbing Loop (old webbing) N/A N/A 24.6 13.4 Girth Hitch 23.2 1.2 24.6 21.3 Wrap 2 Pull 1 27.4 3.3 32.9 24.5
○ See ITRS paper tables ○ http://sarrr.weebly.com/
○ 1 inch tubular nylon webbing ○ New webbing unless stated otherwise
Old webbing anchor
Anchor Type Average Strength (kN) Standard Deviation (kN) Maximum Strength (kN) Minimum Strength (kN) Webbing Loop 21.1 3.3 25.0 16.2 Webbing Loop (old webbing) N/A N/A 24.6 13.4 Girth Hitch 23.2 1.2 24.6 21.3 Wrap 2 Pull 1 27.4 3.3 32.9 24.5
Webbing Loop Girth Hitch Wrap 2 Pull 1
Anchor Type Average Strength (kN) Standard Deviation (kN) Maximum Strength (kN) Minimum Strength (kN) Webbing Loop 21.1 3.3 25.0 16.2 Webbing Loop (old webbing) N/A N/A 24.6 13.4 Girth Hitch 23.2 1.2 24.6 21.3 Wrap 2 Pull 1 27.4 3.3 32.9 24.5
Webbing Loop Girth Hitch Wrap 2 Pull 1
Anchor Type Average Strength (kN) Standard Deviation (kN) Maximum Strength (kN) Minimum Strength (kN) Webbing Loop 21.1 3.3 25.0 16.2 Webbing Loop (old webbing) N/A N/A 24.6 13.4 Girth Hitch 23.2 1.2 24.6 21.3 Wrap 2 Pull 1 27.4 3.3 32.9 24.5
Webbing Loop Girth Hitch Wrap 2 Pull 1
Anchor Type Average Strength (kN) Standard Deviation (kN) Maximum Strength (kN) Minimum Strength (kN) Webbing Loop 21.1 3.3 25.0 16.2 Webbing Loop (old webbing) N/A N/A 24.6 13.4 Girth Hitch 23.2 1.2 24.6 21.3 Wrap 2 Pull 1 27.4 3.3 32.9 24.5
Webbing Loop Girth Hitch Wrap 2 Pull 1
Webbing Loops Webbing Loops (old webbing) Girth Hitch Girth Hitch (wet webbing) Wrap 2 Pull 1
N=10 N=6 N=5 N=5 N=2 N=1 N=67 N=7 N=2 N=5 N=3 N=3 N=5
Anchor Type Weakest Point Webbing Loop At knot with a big internal angle, at carabiner when pulled end to end Girth Hitch At carabiner and at knot Wrap 2 Pull 1 At carabiner Webbing Loop Girth Hitch Wrap 2 Pull 1
Knot
Anchor Type Strengths Weaknesses Webbing Loop Fast to rig, uses little webbing Can slip down or around
Girth Hitch Fast to rig, the anchor stays in place Uses twice the webbing as a loop Wrap 2 Pull 1 Uses less webbing than a girth hitch but more than a loop, the anchor stays in place Uses more webbing than a loop, slowest to rig of the three one strand anchors
Webbing Loop Girth Hitch Wrap 2 Pull 1
Basket Hitch Basket Hitch + One Wrap Basket Hitch + Connector Basket Hitch + Overhand Focal Knot
Wrap 2 Pull 2 Redundant Double Loop Redundant Wrap 2 Pull 1 Wrap 3 Pull 2
All anchors are strong enough
Anchor Type Average Strength (kN) Standard Deviation (kN) Maximum Strength (kN) Minimum Strength (kN) Wrap 2 Pull 2 42.4 1.5 50.0 38.8 Redundant Double Loop 39.8 2.9 42.9 35.9 Redundant Wrap 2 Pull 1 45.1 1.5 46.6 43.1 Basket Hitch 41.8 3.7 50.0 32.1 Basket Hitch (wet webbing) 39.1 3.4 Not Reported 28.9 Basket Hitch (old webbing) N/A N/A 38.4 26.3 Basket Hitch + One Wrap 42.8 3.5 46.2 38.4 Basket Hitch + One Wrap (wet webbing) 36.9 3.4 Not Reported 26.6 Basket Hitch + Connector 41.1 2.6 44.1 36.3 Basket Hitch + Overhand Focal Knot 35.5 0.1 35.6 35.4 Wrap 3 Pull 2 39.6 4.1 52.0 31.5 Wrap 3 Pull 2 (old webbing) N/A N/A 38.1 23.8
Anchor Type Average Strength (kN) Standard Deviation (kN) Maximum Strength (kN) Minimum Strength (kN) Wrap 2 Pull 2 42.4 1.5 50.0 38.8 Redundant Double Loop 39.8 2.9 42.9 35.9 Redundant Wrap 2 Pull 1 45.1 1.5 46.6 43.1 Basket Hitch 41.8 3.7 50.0 32.1 Basket Hitch (wet webbing) 39.1 3.4 Not Reported 28.9 Basket Hitch (old webbing) N/A N/A 38.4 26.3 Basket Hitch + One Wrap 42.8 3.5 46.2 38.4 Basket Hitch + One Wrap (wet webbing) 36.9 3.4 Not Reported 26.6 Basket Hitch + Connector 41.1 2.6 44.1 36.3 Basket Hitch + Overhand Focal Knot 35.5 0.1 35.6 35.4 Wrap 3 Pull 2 39.6 4.1 52.0 31.5 Wrap 3 Pull 2 (old webbing) N/A N/A 38.1 23.8
All anchors are strong enough: All above 23 kN
Anchor Type Average Strength (kN) Standard Deviation (kN) Maximum Strength (kN) Minimum Strength (kN) Wrap 2 Pull 2 42.4 1.5 50.0 38.8 Redundant Double Loop 39.8 2.9 42.9 35.9 Redundant Wrap 2 Pull 1 45.1 1.5 46.6 43.1 Basket Hitch 41.8 3.7 50.0 32.1 Basket Hitch (wet webbing) 39.1 3.4 Not Reported 28.9 Basket Hitch (old webbing) N/A N/A 38.4 26.3 Basket Hitch + One Wrap 42.8 3.5 46.2 38.4 Basket Hitch + One Wrap (wet webbing) 36.9 3.4 Not Reported 26.6 Basket Hitch + Connector 41.1 2.6 44.1 36.3 Basket Hitch + Overhand Focal Knot 35.5 0.1 35.6 35.4 Wrap 3 Pull 2 39.6 4.1 52.0 31.5 Wrap 3 Pull 2 (old webbing) N/A N/A 38.1 23.8
Basket Hitches W3P2 Redundant Double Loop Redundant W2P1 Basket Hitch + Connector Basket Hitch + Overhand Focal Knot Basket Hitch + Wrap W2P2
Anchor Type Strengths Weaknesses Wrap 2 Pull 2 Takes less webbing than other anchors, is multidirectional Can slip around on the anchor, takes a while to rig Redundant Double Loop Anchor is redundant, and consumes a lot of webbing Can slip around on the anchor, takes a long time to rig Redundant Wrap 2 Pull 1 Anchor stays in place, and is redundant Requires the most webbing, takes a lot of time to rig Basket Hitch Uses less webbing than other two stranded anchor options, is very fast to build Slips around the anchor, is unidirectional, not redundant Basket Hitch + One Wrap Stays in place, fast to rig Uses more webbing, slower to rig, is not redundant Basket Hitch + Connector Uses less webbing than other two stranded anchor options, is very fast to build, is multidirectional Slips around the anchor, requires two carabiners, is not redundant Basket Hitch + Overhand Focal Knot The focal knot makes the anchor redundant Is weaker, takes longer to rig, slips on the anchor Wrap 3 Pull 2 Multidirectional, stays in place Takes a lot of webbing to rig, cinches down on conical anchors, and it takes more webbing than basket hitches, is not redundant
Anchor Type Strength (kN) Standard Deviation Maximum (kN) Minimum (kN) Wrap 4 Pull 3 59.5 3.3 61.7 55.7 Wrap 4 Pull 3 (wet webbing) 58.2 3.5 60.3 54.1 53.9 3.1 56.7 50.5
Anchor Type Strength (kN) Standard Deviation Maximum (kN) Minimum (kN) Wrap 4 Pull 3 59.5 3.3 61.7 55.7 Wrap 4 Pull 3 (wet webbing) 58.2 3.5 60.3 54.1 53.9 3.1 56.7 50.5
Anchor Type Strength (kN) Standard Deviation Maximum (kN) Minimum (kN) Wrap 4 Pull 3 59.5 3.3 61.7 55.7 Wrap 4 Pull 3 (wet webbing) 58.2 3.5 60.3 54.1 53.9 3.1 56.7 50.5
Anchor Type Weakest Point Wrap 4 Pull 3 At carabiner, the compressed webbing strand Wrap 4 Pull 3 (wet webbing) At carabiner, the compressed webbing strand
N=3 N=3 N=3
Single Webbing Strand Anchors Double Webbing Strand Anchors W4P3
○ Add another strand of webbing ○ Obvious… ○ Configuration
○ Less strong than anchors with two strands (obvious…) ○ Weak point is the knot or connector
○ All are strong enough regardless of configuration ○ Weak point is at the connectors ○ Compressed strand is the weakest point ○ Knots in the limbs are not the weak point for most anchors
Not here
○ Really strong! ○ Weak point is at the connectors ○ Compressed strand is the weakest point
○ Strength is reduced ○ It is the weak point ○ Anchor still strong enough
○ Not enough to matter
○ Can be reconfigured to anchors twice as strong
Girth Hitch Basket Hitch Basket Hitch + Connector Or Wrap 2 Pull 1 Wrap 2 Pull 2
○ All have more than a 10:1 SSSF for a 1 or 2 kN load
○ e.g., speed, lack of webbing, lack of gear, etc.
○ Protect knot if you want to untie anchor easily ○ Be tolerant of where knots are rigged
Or Or Basket Hitch Wrap 3 Pull 2
○ Laboratory time ○ Laboratory equipment ○ Staff time
http://sarrr.weebly.com/ cavertevans@gmail.com
Weak point: At connector, compressed webbing strand, knot is not weak point!!!!
Anchor Type Weakest Point Wrap 2 Pull 2 At carabiner, the compressed webbing strand Redundant Double Loop At carabiner and knot Redundant Wrap 2 Pull 1 At carabiner, the compressed webbing strand Basket Hitch At carabiner, the compressed webbing strand Basket Hitch (wet webbing) At carabiner, the compressed webbing strand Basket Hitch (old webbing) At carabiner, the compressed webbing strand Basket Hitch + One Wrap At carabiner, the compressed webbing strand Basket Hitch + One Wrap (wet webbing) At carabiner, the compressed webbing strand Basket Hitch + Connector At carabiner, the compressed webbing strand Basket Hitch + Overhand Focal Knot At focal knot Wrap 3 Pull 2 At carabiner, the compressed webbing strand Wrap 3 Pull 2 (old webbing) At carabiner, the compressed webbing strand